Talk with a couple about favorite Wisconsin getaways, and a few standbys figure prominently: Door County, the Apostle Islands, Lake Geneva, Eagle River, Wisconsin Dells. Not so often mentioned—but no less compelling—is the Waupaca/Chain O’ Lakes area, which blends waterside fun with historic charm. Sometimes the grand, secluded escape seems a bore. Waupaca provides the alternative: a casual and bustling, but not too touristy, lake cottage community.
The greater Waupaca area, with about 16,000 residents, includes the city of Waupaca, the community of King, the tiny hamlet of Rural and the surrounding countryside, all about an hour and a half from both Milwaukee and Madison. Aside from the ubiquitous lakes, attractions include festivals, the Crystal River, extensive biking and hiking trails, not to mention a few Travel Green Wisconsin options. There are too many destinations to mention, but a few favorites are highlighted below.
Waupaca
The city itself, featuring many historic Victorian buildings, is built around water; visitors can explore Shadow Lake and Mirror Lake as well as the Crystal and Waupaca rivers. The city hosts a popular sprint triathlon every August, which fills available accomodations, but there are always plenty of housing options. The Green Fountain Inn can serve as a dinner destination on Friday night or as quiet lodging if you’re looking for small but comfortable Victorian rooms. It’s also within walking distance to downtown Waupaca, surprisingly well-stocked with specialty shops. Off Main Street, follow a long, narrow staircase down to lower Cooper Street to arrive at the popular T.W. Martins Public House, just one of several local buildings on the National Historic Register. The restaurant features a hearty menu of burgers, Irish stew, steaks and salmon.
On the southeast edge of Waupaca is the Apple Tree Lane Bed and Breakfast, set on a former apple farm along the banks of the Crystal River. Another Victorian-style bed and breakfast, this inn provides comfortable rooms with private baths in a more rustic setting.
Chain O’ Lakes/King
For more boisterous water fun, head southwest on Highway 22 or west on Highway 54 to get to King and the chain of lakes. The Chain O’ Lakes is just what it sounds like—a
connected group of 22 small, glacial lakes. Each lake has a picturesque name (Otter, Nestling, Sunset, Rainbow, Limekiln) as well as its own history and ambiance. Water skiing is allowed on some, but only at prescribed times. Canoeing, swimming, fishing and kayaking are all welcome. Among the most “hopping” businesses on the lakes is Clear Water Harbor, a restaurant, bar and tour boat cruise line. Manager Caitlin Meighan says the area, once comprised largely of private summer residences, is drawing more tourists in recent years. “The water is so clear and calm.”
The chain is broken into upper and lower sections. Lakes in the lower chain are accessible from one to another by motorboat. The upper chain of six or seven lakes is more remote and accessed best when portaging a canoe. Tour cruises from Clear Water Harbor are available on two vessels—the Lady of the Lake motor yacht and the Chief Waupaca sternwheeler—which cruise eight of the lakes, while the cheerful captains provide narratives of lake history and lore. Becker Marine rents pontoons, canoes and motorboats, including ski boats for those who want to take their own wheel. Canoe trips on the Crystal River off Long Lake are outfitted at Ding’s Dock. Paddlers are hauled to the beginning of the three-hour trip by launch boat.
Couples seeking a romantic eating experience away from the hustle and bustle of the lakes can visit Wild Plum Gourmet in King for breakfast or lunch (they also cater weddings). Homemade—and in some cases, made to order—omelettes, baked goods, soups, salads, paninis and wraps are their primary fare.
Information on renting private cottages on the lakes is available through the Waupaca Chamber of Commerce or the area’s tourism Web site: waupacamemories.com.
Rural
If capping off your day with a quiet evening is in order, tiny Rural would suit you. Turn your head the wrong way on Highway 22 and you’ll miss the quaint “Yankee village,” four miles south of Waupaca on the Crystal River. Stroll narrow streets that channel New England and take in a dozen or so mid-1800s Greek Revival homes on the walking tour. You won’t be surprised that Rural is on the National Register of Historic Villages. “It has kind of a lost charm that’s hard to find these days,” says Robert Benada, Inn Keeper at Crystal River Inn. Access the town through Wisconsin’s Rustic Road 23.
Couples charmed by picturesque Rural will love the bed and breakfast that Benada runs with his wife Deborah. The Crystal River Inn has seven rooms plus two additional cottages on the 11-acre homestead. Built next to the the Crystal River in 1853 by A. R. Potts, the inn is simple, yet elegant. “We try to continue the historic feel by making our own bread, and we make our own jams and jellies. We keep things simple but enjoyable so that people really enjoy the peace here,” Benada says. The inn, a certified Travel Green Wisconsin destination, also boasts a labyrinth for quiet meditation, and walkways that criss-cross the wooded property.
Hit the Trails
Exploring can be done by water, by hiking or by biking—and by Segway. Segway Adventures of Waupaca rents the standing motorized vehicles and has created a variety of tours that take visitors through the historic areas of town, on nature trails or through the woods. Bikes are also a popular mode of transportation; the area’s myriad bike trails, including the new Wau-King trail, are all mapped and available at the Chamber of Commerce. Mid-Life Cycle in downtown Waupaca also has trail maps and rents bikes by the day. Those who prefer to hike will be well served on the River Ridge Trail which has different routes in and around the city.
And once all that nature has sunk in, visit the Artha Sustainable Living Center, about 10 miles west of Waupaca off Highway 54, for a couples yoga workshop. The center offers lodging as well as solar energy consulting. The 90-acre property has its own gardens, a meditation gazebo, reiki sessions, hiking trails, a labyrinth and classes on sustainable energy as well as gardening. “It’s kind of a hotbed of renewable energy,” says Chamomile Nusz, Artha’s program director. Nearby, the Midwest Renewal Energy Association puts on an annual fair as well as the national Solar Tour.
Nusz says visitors will love what Waupaca has to offer. “I grew up here, moved away and then came back to this area, because it’s beautiful and it has a beautiful countryside.” But she also says tourists play a role in providing some of that ambiance. “Waupaca has an amazingly great Main Street and it has a lot of small shops owned by local people. People who live here are really appreciative that tourists come up and experience beauty here, because they help those shops flourish. So many other small towns wouldn’t be able to sustain as many small businesses like that.”